Malloreddus alla Campidanese

2 hours 30 minutes
Medium
Serves 4
Sardinian sausage ragu with saffron and pecorino. Sweet, rich, with a proper bite and a bit of warmth from the chilli.
Malloreddus alla Campidanese (Sardinian sausage pasta)

Why the pasta shape matters

This one’s from Sardinia, specifically the Campidano area in the south of the island, and it’s called Malloreddus alla Campidanese. You’ll also see the pasta itself called gnocchetti sardi. Cavatelli works brilliantly as a substitute since it’s got the same ridged, curled shape that catches the sauce and holds onto it properly. The whole point of the dish is that little pasta shell filling up with rich sauce in every bite, and a smooth pasta shape just doesn’t do the same job here.

The sausage is doing the heavy lifting

Get this right and you’re most of the way there. You want proper coarsely ground pork sausage with real fat content and no filler, no grain or cereal padding it out, just meat. In the UK that’s genuinely hard to track down. Salsicciamo, which you can find in Costco, is honestly the closest thing to real salsiccia I’ve come across, not an ad unfortunately, just the best option I’ve found. M&S occasionally has something usable too, but Salsicciamo’s the one I go back to.

Why saffron? Isn’t that more expensive than gold??

It’s not cheap, and you only need a tiny pinch, but this dish genuinely needs it. It’s what separates it from being just a good sausage and tomato pasta into something that actually tastes like it’s from Sardinia. Don’t expect it to turn the sauce gold, it won’t, but it brings a floral, earthy warmth underneath everything else that you’d notice was missing if it wasn’t there. Crush it with a mortar and pestle or the back of a spoon, steep it in warm water, and stir it in near the end. Fancy. One thing worth knowing, it stains, so keep it off your hands and clothes if you can.

Finishing the pasta

The pasta needs to go in really al dente and finish cooking in the sauce itself, that’s where it picks up all that flavour and gets the bite you’re after. Fresh basil at the very end lifts the whole thing, and a good sharp pecorino, ideally Pecorino Sardo if you can get it, or Pecorino Romano if not, brings the salt and sharpness the dish needs. Round it all out with a decent glug of olive oil right before serving. Rich, sweet from the slow-cooked tomato, firm bite from the sausage and pasta together. This one’s genuinely better than the sum of its parts.

Method

1
Steep the saffron
Crush the saffron threads with a mortar and pestle, or just the back of a spoon, then drop them into the tablespoon of warm water and leave it to sit while you get everything else going.
2
Soften the onion and fennel
Warm the olive oil in a large heavy-based pan over medium heat. Add the onion, fennel seeds and chilli flakes and cook gently until the onion's properly soft, about 8-10 minutes. Take it out and set aside for later.
3
Cook the sausage
Take the onion and fennel out of the pan and set it aside in a small bowl. Give the pan a quick wipe if there's anything sitting on the bottom that could catch and burn. Turn the heat up high, add more oil if needed, the sausage, and let it get real colour on it, breaking it up as it goes. Don't rush this bit, you want it properly browned all through, not just grey.
4
Deglaze and build the sauce
Pour in the white wine and scrape up everything stuck to the bottom of the pan. Let it bubble down for a minute or two. Bring the onion and fennel back in and stir it through, then add the tinned tomatoes, breaking them up as you go, and stir everything together.
5
Low and slow
Turn the heat right down and let it simmer gently for a couple of hours, stirring now and then. You want it to go properly jammy and rich, not thin. Top up with a splash of water if it's drying out too fast. In the last 10 minutes, stir in the saffron and its soaking water.
6
Cook the pasta
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to the boil and cook the cavatelli or gnocchetti sardi until it's really al dente, more bite than you'd normally go for. The pasta shape matters here, it holds the sauce properly and gives you something to really get your teeth into, so don't overcook it.
7
Bring it together
Drain the pasta, keeping a bit of the water back, and add it straight into the sauce. Toss it through over the heat so it finishes cooking in there and picks up everything. Tear in the fresh basil right at the end. Finish with a good glug of olive oil and plenty of grated pecorino, then serve straight away with more pecorino on top.

Drinks pairing

If you can, try and get hold of some Ichnusa, Sardinia’s own beer, the one that looks like the Cagliari badge. Banger of a lager. If you prefer a wine, Cannonau from Sardinia is really good, but any decent red will be great.

Ingredients

Serves 4
400 ggood quality pork sausage, coarse ground
1 Wholeonion, finely chopped
1 tspfennel seeds
1 Pinchdried chilli flakes
3 tbspolive oil, plus more to finish
150 mldry white wine
400 ggood quality tinned tomatoes
1 Pinchsaffron threads
1 tbspwarm water (for the saffron)
400 gcavatelli or gnocchetti sardi
1 Handful fresh basil
1 HandfulPecorino Sardo or Pecorino Romano, grated, plus more to serve
Tools needed
Large heavy-based pan, wooden spoon, large pasta pot, slotted spoon or spider strainer

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